_shift travelled to Copenhagen Fashion Week to see the best Danish fashion for autumn/winter 2018
This article was originally published on _shift London.
The first visit to Copenhagen Fashion Week – any fashion week – can end up chaotic. Amidst the stress and bustle that comes with fashion week, Copenhagen, however, remained friendly. The Danish autumn/winter 2018 shows managed to surprise us with forward-thinking concepts. There were different show formats, a harmony between fashion and music, and even hints of fashion performance.
One of the first shows was Designer’s Nest Talent & Award Show on Tuesday afternoon. With 27 emerging designers in the running order, visitors were treated to powerful contrasting collections. The show sparked a conversation on sustainable fashion.
Danish design graduate Brigitta Szekernyés was among those who tackled the sustainability issue on the catwalk, at Grand Hotel D’Angleterre. Her collection was punk-inspired and featured hoodie dresses, frayed skirts and fishnet tights.
Another designer who focused on sustainable fashion was Antonia Larsson Pihl. The Swedish Beckman College of Design graduate merged techno rave and street racing. Her clothes were decorated with big logos and had sporty silhouettes.
The Danish designers Marie Due & Karoline Heide, who work together, showed a collection with great attention to detail. _shift particularly liked the checkered blue coat that came with leather buckles around the wrists.
While Scandinavian fashion is known for its practicality and wearability, designer Freya Dalsjø works with exclusive quality fabrics. The Danish talent whose designs were criticised by American Vogue for being “too ill-fitting”, proved that she was a more than capable designer this season. Instead of staging a conventional fashion show, Freya’s collection was all about the experience. The sound flowed with the models’ movements on the catwalk, leaving room for the audience to interpret the sound installation’s connection to the clothes.
Accompanied by a live performance of percussionist Wu Yan, the fashion ranged from deconstructed suits to mini skirts over maxi tulle skirts and wide-shoulder coats. Dalsjø’s collection made it to the top of our list, with a show that reflected the current state of femininity, all about power and resistance.
Another highlight of Copenhagen Fashion Week was Christina Exteen, creative director of By Malene Birger. By Malene Birger is one of Denmark’s best known fashion exports. The show was located outside of Copenhagen’s city centre at Den Grå Hal.
Rather than a catwalk show, this was a short fashion sequence all about performance. In a short film, models sported the collection in movement, while swaying to wind machines in clothes that mirrored a playful twist between the feminine and masculine. The dynamism of the film allowed the audience to see more details and different angles. The collection was not only seen but also virtually experienced. For autumn/winter 2018, By Malene Birger brings silk blouse dresses, glitzy details and some glamorous evening looks.